Knäkebröd (Rye Flatbread)

After becoming bored with the choice of crackers in the shops I decided to make some of my own. I remembered seeing a recipe in Trina Hanemann's Scandinavian Cookbook that was for some authentic Nordic crispy flatbreads.
I adapted the recipe a little as I didn't have aniseeds and used caraway seeds instead, which worked perfectly well.
The recipe was very easy to make and although my initial thoughts were perhaps there were too many oats that could have made the dough potentially on the rough side, I was proved wrong as they just disappeared into the mixture.

Be prepared for a session of batch baking unless you have an oven of industrial proportions, as it will take several tray loads to complete. I made rather more than than stated so they were slightly smaller. The important thing is to roll them thin.
I found the recipe's timings rather academic (no two ovens are the same) and had to make sure I kept an eye – and my nose – on them to know when they were ready.

They turned beautifully crisp and were rather moreish with a selection of good cheeses and chutneys.

Makes 10
Ingredients
50g fresh yeast
500ml lukewarm water
1 tsp salt
2 tsp caraway seeds
1 tbsp honey
100ml sunflower oil
200g rye flour
200g rolled oats
250g plain white flour

Method
Dissolve the yeast in the warm water, then add the salt, caraway seeds, honey and oil and mix well.
Add the rye four, oats and half the white flour and mix for 5 minutes if using an electric mixer, or for 10 minutes if making the dough by hand. Sprinkle the rest of the the white flour over the dough and leave to rise for 15 minutes.

Preheat the oven to 220C (Gas 7) and line a baking sheet with baking paper. Knead the dough on a floured work surface, then divide it into ten equal pieces (I made more) and roll each one into a very thin disc. Lay the flatbreads on the baking paper and bake for 5-8 minutes until crisp.

Photo: ©childsdesign 2010

The Scandinavia Show 2010

When I found out about this, I was immediately interested, the prospect of going to an event that is purely devoted to all things Scandinavian got me quite excited too.
Readers of my blog will have already noticed that I'm a fan of Nordic cuisine and I have a passion for Iceland and its Scandi cousins – I've included a fair few recipes and mentions relating to that region.

Taking part in the event will be various food shops and restaurants, something I cannot miss –  Madsen and Scandinavian Kitchen will be there.
Also at the show, Trina Hahnemann will be giving cooking demonstrations and if her books are anything to go by, I think that will be worth a visit.

The Scandinavia Show is the UK's only event completely dedicated to showcasing the best of Denmark, Sweden, Norway, Finland and of course Iceland. Covering all aspects of Scandinavian design, travel, lifestyle, fashion and food, the weekend show will be packed with exhibitors with well-stocked stalls.

Along with shopping opportunities, there will be live entertainment in the form of music and dancing each day, there will also be a special area for children to keep them entertained too.

For more information about the event and how to buy tickets visit: www.scandinaviashow.co.uk

The Scandinavian Cookbook

Food should not only feed the body, but also the soul. A little more time spent in the kitchen using fresh and seasonal ingredients to make a meal to be enjoyed together is Trina Hahnemann’s dream. In her book The Scandinavian Cookbook she takes us month by month through 100 traditional Nordic recipes which perfectly capture the essence of Scandinavian cuisine and culture.
Trina, a leading Danish TV chef and food writer give us recipes which are a light modern version of Scandinavian home cooking, presented in a way that is simple and healthy.

As soon as I received the book I couldn’t wait to flick through its pages. I’m passionate about all things Scandinavian, a seed that was planted within me ever since visiting Iceland and Sweden has found me exploring and researching everything from food to design.

I would love to see more dishes from northern latitudes being served in Britain and there really is no reason why Scandinavian food shouldn’t become more popular.
Most people tend to think of Nordic ingredients consisting of mostly fish or dare I say it, slightly dodgy meatballs in IKEA. Make them yourself, they’re so much better as page 84 demonstrates and if you’re in the mood for something more spicy try the meatballs in curry sauce on page 194 – yes, the Scandinavians are partial to curry too.
There really is so much more to their cuisine, seafood in all its variants, fresh from the garden salads, hearty roasts and irresistible baking.

After spending a good hour salivating over the pages and marking potential recipes with post-it notes, I selected four to try.
The choice was difficult as I wanted to make everything, but with the help of Lars Ranek’s gorgeous photography I decided on the ones where the pictures made my mouth water the most.
It was easy to get carried away by the images of sparkling frost covered trees, the golden light of a low sun illuminating the cobbled maritime streets of Copenhagen or hazy meadows and quaint summerhouses, that I had to prise myself out of the sofa, away from moments of nostalgia and get myself into the kitchen.

Here follows those chosen dishes complete with photos of my own attempts.

Cauliflower Soup with Grilled Scallops

I don’t often make soups, but I was drawn to the Cauliflower Soup with Grilled Scallops (p.184), I think the idea of scallops made it sound rather special and I fancied a treat. The soup itself was easy to make and had a glorious velvety texture. The hint of curry flavour lifted it from potential blandness and surprisingly, although the cauliflower was typically smelly on cooking, the soup didn’t have the characteristic strong cauliflower flavour. The scallops were simply griddled and then dressed in fresh lemon juice which perfectly complimented the creaminess of the soup.

Biff Lindström

Biff Lindström (p.54) is a clever adaptation of steak tartare, all the ingredients are there, but it is cooked, so if you’re not a fan of eating raw meat, then this is the recipe for you.
Minced beef is combined with onions, capers, pickled beetroot, chives, Worcestershire sauce and eggs yolks, formed into burger shapes and fried. I even made the pickled beetroot myself (p.48), I loved the use of star anise that gave a light aniseed flavour.
The Biff Lindström is served on crispy sautéed potatoes with Balsamico beans on the side. My french beans didn’t look quite like the book’s photo as the balsamic vinegar had made them a touch brown, but they did taste very good.
The beef was moist and well flavoured and who could resist fried potatoes especially as they were cooked in some butter.

Potato Cakes

Sometimes I will take an element of a recipe and adapt it to what I have in the fridge and pantry. This time I made just the potato cakes from the recipe for Potato Cakes with Lumpfish Roe and Beetroot Salad (p.30). Instead of topping with lumpfish roe, I chose to use some flaked smoked mackerel with the homemade pickled beetroot and a dollop of horseradish cream on top.
I’ve never made potato cakes before, and I was initially concerned that they might fall apart or not properly cook through. The cakes are bound together with egg so held together effortlessly and as the potato was grated it cooked perfectly. Extra flavour additions were spring onions, sesame seeds, nutmeg and thyme which gave the potato cakes a good savoury taste. I think mine turned out well and they were enjoyably crisp.

Cardamom Buns

There’s nothing more tempting than some Scandinavian baking. Fresh breads and pastries, still warm from the oven fills the house with such an inviting aroma. I can imagine snuggling up by a real fire on a long Norwegian winter night with the smell of spices and comforting yeasty aromas wafting from the kitchen.
I love making bread by hand so I thought I’d make the Cardamom Buns (p.38). Cardamom is a much used spice in Scandinavia and I think it lends a pleasant perfume to sweet breads.
Making the buns was a long process, as bread making should be, but it was well worth the effort. My buns rose really well, so much so that they touched each other on the baking tray. When I removed them from the oven, all satisfyingly shiny from the egg glaze, it was a joy to separate them, the gentle ripping sound of well made bread with a wisp of escaping steam delivering the spicy aroma into my nostrils.

I was pleased with the overall ease that the recipes could be made – they are breeze to follow and many use readily available ingredients.
Some of the recipes are starkly simplistic, for example, strawberries and cream (p.104), but if one considers it to be a source of inspiration and an insight into Scandinavian cuisine, then it has its place.

The Scandinavian Cookbook by Trina Hahnemann is published by Quadrille.
Paperback RRP £14.99
Order yours now


Food photos: ©childsdesign 2010
Book kindly supplied by Quadrille Publishing

Eating Out: Madsen

Reviewing restaurants isn't normally my thing, but this time I thought I'd give it a go as I was pleased with my experience.

I had been intending to try out Madsen's for quite sometime and as I was enjoying a day out in London's South Kensington, visiting the Natural History Museum, what a perfect opportunity to do so.

Sitting on the Old Brompton Road, just around the corner from the tube station, it is ideally located to make a date for lunch after trekking around the museums.

Our heads were now full of dinosaurs and other natural wonders, but our stomachs were very empty and need of sustenance as well as enjoyment. Madsen's Danish menu didn't fail to fulfill both.

We hadn't booked, but that was no problem and a table for two in the window was given to us.

The interior is typically scandinavian – clean lines, wooden floors and white walls giving a feeling of airiness and space.

The lunch menu has a varied selection of 'smushi' – small open sandwiches with toppings including marinated herring, prawns, or roast beef and other Danish specialities such as “Fiskefrikadeller” – pan-fried haddock fishcakes.

We opted for the weekly special of Frikadeller (pork meatballs) with braised red cabbage and gravy. This was accompanied with new potatoes dressed in butter and thyme, which were delightfully presented, all wrapped up in a parchment bag tied with string.

The meatballs were light and nicely seasoned with a crispy outside and the cabbage was perfectly cooked, not too soft nor too crunchy with a delicate sweetness.

Madsen's food doesn't try to pretend to be high-end and 'restauranty' and that in my opinion is what makes it appealing to me. Good honest food prepared and presented well is something I feel comfortable with.

Speaking of comfort, the service was friendly and attentive without being intrusive and we left feeling refreshed and relaxed.

I shall be keeping an eye on their weekly changing specials as I would definitely return when I'm in the area again.

madsenrestaurant.com

Photo source: Madsen website

Fiskibollur: Fish Balls

Yet another recipe from my kitchen library. I bought the book, Cool Cuisine: Traditional Icelandic Cuisine by Nanna Rögnvaldardóttir, after one of my visits to Reykjavík.

I have tried various recipes for fish balls and this particular one works best.

For such a simple recipe – there are no elaborate flavourings here – it tastes very good, but I couldn't resist adding some chopped fresh chopped dill and parsley.
It's a great way to use cheaper cuts of white fish, and so long as the fish is fresh, you really can't go wrong.

You do, however, really need to use a food processor, as this gives the fine texture to the minced fish.

In addition to the original instructions from the book, I prefer to chill the fish balls prior to cooking them. This helps to firm them up and prevents them from falling apart during frying.

Serves 4

Ingredients

600g white fish fillets, skinned and boned

1 onion, chopped

2 eggs, lightly beaten

100ml milk, or as needed

1½ teaspoons salt

third teaspoon pepper

3 tablespoons plain flour

3 tablespoons potato flour

3 tablespoons vegetable oil and a knob of butter for frying

Method

Place the fish and onion in a food processor and mince finely.

Stir in the eggs, some of the milk and the seasoning.

Stir in the plain flour and potato flour, and add more milk if needed. The mixture should be fairly thick and able to hold it's shape well.

Shape oblong fish balls with a tablespoon and place them on a plate and put into the fridge to firm up for about an hour.

Heat the oil and butter in a frying pan and fry the fish balls over a medium heat until brown on all sides.

Lower the heat, add a little water to the pan, cover with a lid and cook for a few minutes more.

Serve with melted butter, boiled new potatoes and a salad.

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Photo: ©childsdesign 2010

Cloudberry Vinegar

I'm always on the look out for some new ingredient to try, no matter how small a part it plays in a recipe. My latest find was some cloudberry vinegar which I discovered in IKEA's food section. When in flatpack furniture land, I make it my ritual to peruse the shelves for Scandinavian food, just before I leave the store.

The vinegar is genuine Swedish stuff and is made from cloudberry wine. Perhaps I should try to describe what cloudberries are as I'm not sure whether many people are familiar with them.

A relative of the blackberry bramble and the raspberry. It is a small herbaceous plant, with hairs rather than prickles on its stems and produces large white flowers that later develop into orange-coloured fruit when ripe. It's botanical name is Rubus chamaemorus and it grows primarily in the northern hemisphere.

I could go into lots of detail, but I think if you'd like to know more, then you should have a look on wikipedia.

Anyway, back to the vinegar. Unlike raspberry vinegar which is usually infused with the fruit after the vinegar has been made, this starts out as a wine made from cloudberries.

I tried a little spoonful to check on it's taste and acidity before using in a salad dressing. The vinegar has a definite wine flavour, is not too acidic and the scent of the cloudberries is evident.

The flavour isn't so overpowering as a raspberry vinegar so I can see that it would lend itself to a wider variety of uses.

I  don't think £3.75 for 200ml is too high a price to pay for something that is of high quality and so refined in flavour. A little goes a long way too.

One thing I've learnt, is to never buy cheap wine vinegar again.

To find out more about the vinegar's producers visit: grythyttanvin.se
Cloudberry image from wikipedia

Seared Pollack Fillet with Caramelised Onions

Yet another recipe from Andreas Viestad's, Kitchen of Light book.

Pollack is a fish that's in season at the moment so it proved a perfect time to use it in this delicious recipe. With cod being a threatened fish, the British public are being urged to try pollack as an alternative, and I can say that nobody would be disappointed with this fish. It's flesh is white and firm, yet flaky and has a clean taste of the sea, not too dissimilar to cod or haddock.

This recipe calls for fish that has its skin left on, but as I bought mine from the supermarket, it had been stripped of its natural covering by a well-meaning fishmonger – why do they do this? Often the skin is essential to imparting a full flavour and not only that, but it turns tantalisingly crispy when seared. Still, my rather naked fillets did manage to stand up well to the gorgeous caramelised onions – the sweetness is perfectly balanced with the clean fresh-tasting pollack.

The onions can be made in advance too and warmed through later.

I served the dish with some simply boiled new potatoes tossed in butter and some chopped flat-leaved parsley and young leaf spinach.

Serves 4

Ingredients

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

6 large yellow onions, cut into third inch slices

2 teaspoons sugar

2 whole cloves

one, 1 and a half pound pollack fillet, skin on, cut into 4 equal pieces

fine sea salt

2 teaspoons all-purpose flour

2 to 3 tablespoons bacon fat or butter

freshly ground black pepper

Method

Heat the butter in a large skillet over a medium heat. Add the onions and cook for 10 minutes, tossing the onions around every one in a while. Add the sugar and cloves and cook for 15 more minutes over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft, brown, and sweet. Keep warm over low heat.

Meanwhile, soak the fish in iced water  for 15 to 20 minutes, or place it in a colander in the sink under cold running water for 15 to 20 minutes. Pat the fish dry with paper towels.

Rub the fillets with salt and dredge them in the flour. Heat the bacon fat or butter in a large non-stick skillet. Add the fish, skin side up and cook for 1 minute, then turn and cook for 5 to 7 minutes more until flaky.

Remove the cloves from the onions and discard. Distribute the onions among four plates, place the fish on top, season with pepper and serve.

Photo taken from the book

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Roast Dill-Scented Chicken with Leeks and Potatoes

As promised, I have made a recipe from the book, Kitchen of Light, by Andreas Viestad.

This is one of my latest additions to the kitchen library and contains some beautiful Scandinavian dishes, mainly from Norway. Nearly every page features stunning photography of the food and countryside, which proves to be very inspiring. In addition to the visual delights, the author shares some interesting insights from his homeland – memories of childhood, historical and geographical facts besides well written recipes.

This dish uses copious amounts of dill, a herb which grows prolifically in the wild, throughout Scandinavia. Don't be put off by the huge quantity, as the end result produces quite a subtle yet fragrant flavour and the use of butter keeps the chicken flesh succulent.

Serves 4

Ingredients
One 4-pound free-range chicken


Fine sea salt and freshly ground black pepper


6 tablespoons unsalted butter, at room temperature


½ cup (1dl) chopped dill, plus 1 large bunch fresh dill 


1 lemon, quartered


5 to 6 medium leeks, white and light green parts only, thoroughly washed and cut into 2-inch pieces


1½  pounds (3/4kg) russet potatoes, cut into 1-inch slices


8 garlic cloves, unpeeled


3 cups (7dl) chicken stock


Fresh dill for garnish

Lemon wedges and grated lemon zest for garnish

Method
Preheat the oven to 425°F.

Rub the chicken with salt and pepper. In a small bowl, combine the butter and chopped dill. Rub the chicken with about 2 tablespoons of the dill butter. Carefully lift up the skin from the chicken breasts at the cavity, using your fingers or a blunt knife to loosen the skin; be careful not to tear it. Insert about 1 tablespoon of the dill butter under the skin of the breast and make sure that the skin covers the meat when you are done. Refrigerate the remaining butter. Fill the cavity of the chicken with the lemon quarters and the bunch of dill.

Place the chicken breast side up on a V-shaped rack in a roasting pan. Place the roasting pan on the middle oven rack and roast the chicken for 25 minutes.

Remove the chicken from the oven and rub with about 1 tablespoon of the dill butter, holding the butter in your fingers. When most of the butter has melted and you are at risk of burning your fingers, place the remaining lump on the breast of the chicken.

Remove the roasting pan from the oven. Fill the pan with the leeks, potatoes, and garlic and add the chicken stock. Turn the chicken breast side down and place it in the roasting pan. Reduce the oven temperature to 350°F. Return the roasting pan to the oven and roast for 50 to 60 more minutes, or until the chicken is cooked through. Test for doneness by piercing it with a sharp knife at the thickest part of the thigh; the juices should run clear. (If there is any trace of pink in the juices, return the chicken to the oven.) Transfer the chicken to a carving board and let it rest, uncovered, for 15 minutes.

Check the potatoes for doneness. If they are still firm, increase the oven temperature to 400°F and continue baking until the potatoes are nice and tender. Squeeze the garlic out of their skins. Leave the roasting pan in the oven with the heat turned off. 
Transfer the potatoes, leeks, and garlic to a serving platter. Carve the chicken at the table (discard the lemon and dill inside the cavity).

Garnish with dill and lemon wedges and sprinkle lemon zest on top.

DILL is one Scandinavia's favourite herbs, one that grows willingly in the cool Nordic climate. Historically, it has been important in traditional herbal medicine; dill water was used to soothe children. 

In fact, the name dill is of Nordic origin, dilla meaning "to lull" in Old Norse.


Photo taken from the book

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Trout Fillets with Roasted Beetroot and Horseradish & Dill Sauce

More often than not, beetroot is presented in the worst possible way in our British shops. It's either incarcerated in a tight fitting plastic wrap, precooked, soggy and tasteless or floating around in a jar surrounded by a vicious, mouth-puckering acid purporting to be vinegar.
It's not surprising then, that most people loathe this much abused root vegetable.
Beetroot can be quite pleasant if treated with some respect in the kitchen, so naturally I was excited to see fresh bunched ones on sale.

Inspired by the Scandinavian approach to using beetroot, I conjured up a dish that has all the right Nordic elements to create something not only delicious, but a joy to look at as well. There's something wonderful about the gorgeous deep carmine coloured juice that almost bleeds from the roots and stains everything in its path.

Serves 2

Ingredients
For the beetroot
olive oil
500g fresh beetroot
1 teaspoon heather honey
half teaspoon caraway seeds
fews sprigs fresh thyme, leaves only
sea salt
freshly ground black pepper

For the sauce
2 tablespoons plain greek yoghurt
1 tablespoon double cream
2 teaspoons horseradish sauce
2 tablespoons fresh dill, finely chopped

For the trout
2 thick trout fillets, skin on
smoked sea salt, black pepper and lemon rub*
olive oil

Method
Preheat the oven to Gas 5.
Wash, trim and quarter the beetroot and place in a baking dish with a drizzle of olive oil, sprinkle with caraway seeds, thyme and season with salt and pepper, then drizzle over the honey. Add a splash of water, cover the dish with tinfoil and put in the oven for about an hour until the beetroot is tender.

To make the sauce, mix all the the ingredients in a bowl until combined.

Take the trout and rub a small amount of oil on to the skin and then sprinkle on some of the rub and massage in.
Heat a large non-stick frying pan and add a small drop of olive oil, then place in the fish, skin side down and fry gently over a medium heat until the skin becomes crispy and the fish is cooked half way through. Now turn over the fillets and cook for a minute or so more.

Pile the hot beetroot on to plates, place the fish on top and spoon over the sauce.

*

Piparkökur: Icelandic Pepper Cookies

This is my version of an Icelandic recipe that I have in my collection for some extremely moreish spiced biscuits. Traditionally they are made for Christmas, but they're so good with their crispy honeycomb texture and warm fragrance, they'd go well with a cup of freshly brewed coffee, anytime.

You could decorate them with icing, if making them for a festive occasion, but they're perfectly fine left plain. In fact, I tend to find the icing can eventually make the biscuits go a little soft, which, perhaps, is not so desirable.





The recipe is sufficient to make a lot of biscuits ( I didn't count the final number – sorry) so you will have to bake them in several batches. Just store them in an airtight container and they'll keep fresh for quite a long time – that's if they're not eaten in a flash!

Ingredients
250g plain flour
2 and half teaspoons baking powder
1 and half teaspoons baking soda
1 teaspoon ground ginger
half teaspoon ground cinnamon
half teaspoon ground cardamom
quarter teaspoon ground nutmeg
quarter teaspoon ground cloves
quarter teaspoon ground black pepper
eighth teaspoon paprika
250g light brown muscovado sugar
125g butter, softened
1 large egg, lightly beaten

Method

Sieve together the flour, baking powder, baking soda and spices into a bowl and then mix in the sugar.

Add the butter and rub it through the flour mixture with your fingers until it becomes completely combined and sandy in texture.

Add the beaten egg and work in to form a dough. If the mixture seems too dry and doesn't want to come together, you'll have to crack another egg and add some more beaten egg, a little at a time. You may only need half the egg.

Wrap the dough in some cling film and put it in the fridge overnight to firm up.

To roll out the dough, place a large piece of cling film on your work surface and lightly dust with flour, put a quarter of the dough on it and place another sheet of cling film over the top, now roll out quite thinly. Peel back the cling film and use a cutter to cut into cookies shapes. Use a cutter that you think will be slightly smaller than you need as the dough spreads as it heats up in the oven.

Carefully peel off the cut pieces and place on to a flat, lightly greased, non-stick baking sheet. The cookies need to be well spaced to allow for them to grow.

Repeat with the other three pieces of dough and continue to cook in batches.

Bake at Gas 6 / 200C / 400F until dark brown.

New Book - New Recipes to Try

Yet another cookery book has entered my collection. 

In my quest to find more Scandinavian recipes to try, 

I discovered 'Kitchen of Light' by Andreas Viestad. It actually accompanies a television series currently broadcasting in the United States, called 'New Scandinavian Cooking'. Their website states that they're currently working with the UK to get it aired in my dear old home land, most likely on UKTV Food - I'll be looking forward to that, if the recipes and photos in the book are anything to go by. 

In the meantime I will endeavour to attempt most of the recipes, and post them here in a 'Tried and Tested' section. In fact, I have so many cookery books and magazine clippings still waiting to have their turn in the kitchen, that I must, and will include something from them too.