A Taste of the Unexpected

Growing things to eat is fast becoming a popular past time, not necessarily out of necessity, but purely for personal satisfaction, so why bother cultivating fruit and vegetables that are cheap or readily available in the shops? Mark Diacono, head gardener at Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s River Cottage, prompts us to rethink our gardening habits in his book, A Taste Of The Unexpected.

I grew up believing that most plants in the garden were inedible or even poisonous, except for the very obvious things of course. Like every child, I was curious as to what that shiny berry was and my parents’ solution to protect me from dangerous ingestion, was to declare most things toxic and therefore untouchable. A sensible approach, but in hindsight, it had the effect of narrowing my view on what could be eaten.

Mark’s book has opened up a whole new world to savour. Who would have thought you could eat fuchsia berries? They were definitely on my deadly list.
The main point, is that we are encouraged to grow what we’d love to eat and to compile a wish list to get started. If we can’t buy it in the shops, it goes on the list. Does it taste better the moment it is picked? Then that goes on the list too. From the familiar to the downright strange, Mark gives us a practical and comprehensive guide to growing, harvesting and cooking.

Every page is enlightening as well as inspiring and I can see my kitchen garden quickly turning into an experimental horticultural playground. Who knows I could soon be growing mulberries, blue honeysuckle, Chilean guavas or the amusingly named Egyptian walking onion. I just can’t wait for the spring.

A Taste of the Unexpected by Mark Diacono is published by Quadrille.
Hardback RRP £20.00
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Book kindly supplied by Quadrille Publishing

Ramsay's Best Menus

Gordon Ramsay may be a Michelin star chef but he is still able to put together cookery books that are accessible to all. Gordon wants everyone to be able to cook and in his new book, Ramsay's Best Menus, all the recipes are very approachable.

Sometimes, planning a meal can be difficult. You may find yourself up to your ears in cookery books looking to find the perfect meal. Trying to choose a starter, main course and dessert can be daunting, balancing the weight and combination of each course is puzzling at the best of times.
Ramsay's Best Menus carries a range of recipes from around the world all in the one book, so there's no need to wade through dozens of them.

The unique spit-page format allows you to plan meals with ease

Drawing on dishes from Ramsay's Best Restaurant TV series and from Gordon's own earlier recipes, Ramsay's Best Menus is presented in an unusual format, one which I didn't think I'd warm to, but it's so nicely done and actually works. The pages are sliced so that they can be turned to mix and match starters, mains and desserts with ease. With all the recipes and their pictures displayed all on one spread it makes everything so easy to follow.
There are 52 pre-selected menus to choose from or you can go to town and make your own combinations from no less than 190 recipes to create an astonishing 140,000 different options.

Pumpkin Risotto with Parmesan

Being in the depths of autumn at the moment, I wanted a menu that reflected the season, so that I could uses the appropriate produce.
Pumpkins and squashes are filling the shop shelves at the moment and there's a really simple to make Pumpkin Risotto with Parmesan (p.076) that's just perfect. I didn't actually have a traditional pumpkin, but an Onion Squash instead which gave the rice an amazing yellow hue, like sunshine in a bowl, just what you need to lift the spirits on a dull day. No onion or garlic is used, but providing you have a good stock, that's all that is needed to give the correct balance of flavours
The risotto was rich and creamy and the final topping of crispy fried sage leaves added a really interesting touch.

Sticky Lemon Chicken

For the main course, the Sticky Lemon Chicken (p.080) looked very appealing, perhaps it was not so photogenic, but gosh, did it taste good. Rich, gooey with a precise balance of flavours – tangy lemon, sweet honey and salty savouriness from the soy sauce.

Apple Pudding

To end, a heart warming dessert of Apple Pudding (p.099) was just right. It was not rib sticking stuff, but very light so a favourable sweet treat to finish a meal. A layer of seasonal apples are covered in a sponge topping, delicately scented with lemon zest.

After reading through a fair number of recipes, I could see that nothing is complicated and shouldn't throw anyone into an absolute panic if they were entertaining. There are relatively few steps from start to finish and it is possible to make some things in advance, thereby reducing any culinary stress.

The book is also packed with plenty of information on store cupboard essentials, oven temperatures, cooking times etc and also has a section on accompaniments and basics, so is great for the home cook.

Ramsay's Best Menus by Gordon Ramsay is published by Quadrille.
Hardback RRP £20.00
Order yours now


Food photos: ©childsdesign 2010
Book images courtesy of Quadrille
Book kindly supplied by Quadrille

I Love Curry

I’m inclined to agree with those that say curry is addictive, whether the exotic spices have a narcotic property or not, they certainly tantalise the taste buds, making me want more.

Lately, curry has had a bad rap from health enthusiasts, stating that it is high in fat, sugar and salt, takeaways and ready meals especially so.
That’s not good news for devotees of Indian food who want enjoy a good fuss-free curry but also care about what they put into their bodies.

Anjum Anand has the perfect antidote to this problem, as her approach to Indian cooking is lighter and healthier, but no less authentic or full of evocative spices. It is very refreshing to know that curries do not have to be covered in a layer of oil to be bursting with flavour.
The recipes are not complicated either. I Love Curry delivers clear well described instructions which are undemanding to follow, perfect for the novice curry lover.
The book offers plenty of choice for those looking for tried and trusted favourites, restaurant classics or authentic regional dishes. In total there are 50 great curries and 25 accompanying dishes.

Anjum gives us plenty of information about ingredients and cooking methods, she also shares her tips to help achieve the perfect result,
which made me aware of the fact that I’m still learning.

Prawn Mango and Coconut Curry

With such a variety of recipes for vegetable, poultry and game, meat and fish and seafood, I was torn between something I knew like the Chilli Chicken Balti (p.99) or something I was less familiar with. I went for the latter and chose the Prawn, Mango and Coconut Curry (p.80), which turned out very well.
According to Anjum, the curry came about after a chat with her publisher who wanted to include mangoes in the book, particularly in a savoury curry. I quite liked the idea myself and the coconut was also especially appealing.
Interestingly, the recipe doesn’t use ay garlic or onions but that’s not missed in the end result. The flavour is very aromatic, fragranced with curry leaves, brown mustard seeds, whole black peppercorns and of
course chillies.

Cucumber and Mint Raita

I decided to make the Cucumber and Mint Raita (p.171), not because I’d never had it before, but to prove that something so ridiculously simple does need a recipe. On previous non-recipe assisted attempts mine always turned out too thin in consistency. However, following Anjum’s foolproof guide it worked out fine. It is essential to squeeze the grated cucumber through a cloth to remove the excess water.

With well thought out recipes and splendid photography there’s nothing that won’t inspire curry lovers, whether they are venturing out into the world of cooking Indian cuisine for the first time or they are experienced and confident in the kitchen.

I Love Curry by Anjum Anand is published by Quadrille.
Hardback RRP £17.99
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Food photos: ©childsdesign 2010
Review copy kindly supplied by Quadrille Publishing

Kitchen Garden Companion

As a keen amateur kitchen gardener, this is the sort of book that I couldn't pass by, so when I was offered the chance of a review copy, the excitement got the better of me and I fired off my response and eagerly awaited its arrival.
I think the postman's arm was aching while he was waiting for me to answer the door – it's a BIG book. Well over 700 pages bound into a spine measuring about two inches thick, with a rather attractive tactile cloth dust jacket, the book is packed with a wealth of gardening information aimed at people just like me. The advice and tips show us how it is possible to grow a multitude of edibles in a small space, an inspiration to all plot-to-plate enthusiasts.

The author, Stephanie Alexander, ran the acclaimed Stephanie's Restaurant in Melbourne, Australia and was a partner in the popular Richmond Hill Café & Larder and together with this experience is one of Australia's most highly regarded food writers. Her expertise runs throughout the book in an informative style with easy to follow gardening advice and related recipes.

Vegetable gardening is an ongoing learning process for me, I've had successes and of course failures. Some of those reluctant or pest besieged crops have even put me off growing them again, but after reading through the pages,
I suddenly felt inspired with renewed confidence, to have another go.
The front section, Getting Started, guides you through the stages of setting up the best environment to get the most from your produce patch. All the basics are there, from creating perfect compost to when to sow and plant out, bug control and there's even a list of useful gardening equipment.


There's nothing nicer than picking your own home grown fruit and veg then eating it right away and each of Stephanie's chosen crops is given a selection of recipes to enjoy your own efforts in the best possible way.
This section is compiled in A-Z format from Amaranth to Zucchini, although I think I would have preferred it to have been listed by seasonality, it just makes more sense to me.

From the simplest Smashed Broad Beans (p.160) to the sumptuous Tony Tan's Beef and Spinach Curry (p.592) all the recipes are uncomplicated in their approach, but most of all they kindle a passion to grow and cook.

I particularly like the fact that families are encouraged to motivate their children into becoming involved in both the kitchen and the garden. Stephanie's philosophy is that there is no such thing as special food for children: if food is good, everyone will enjoy it regardless of age. Following her work with inner-city primary school children, where she set up a kitchen garden to give them the opportunity to learn about food first hand, she continues her work in her book.

Despite its slightly unwieldy size, this book will become
well-thumbed and never left on the shelf as it's set to become my trusty kitchen garden partner.

Kitchen Garden Companion by Stephanie Alexander is published by Quadrille.
Hardback RRP £30.00
Order yours now

Book kindly supplied by Quadrille Publishing

Bill's Basics

The ever-popular Australian food writer, TV chef and restauranteur, Bill Granger, brings us his new book filled with over 100 of his favourite classic dishes. From lazy breakfasts to late-night suppers to lunch for a crowd, Bill’s simplified and unfussy approach to the recipes allows one to fit some enjoyable cooking into their busy lives.

I freely admit that I’m a cook book addict, so receiving this review copy had me all excited. At first, I wasn’t sure what the recipes would include, but I was inspired when I flicked through the pages. Many of the recipes, I discovered, were things that I already cooked on a regular basis, but that did not deter me from reading them. This is the whole point of the book. I read somewhere that on average, people will cook the same three meals, week in, week out and I’m no exception.

Most people lead a hectic lifestyle and they feel as if they’re running around everywhere with very little time for preparing a meal. In Bill’s book, the recipes are straightforward, yet the results are delicious, from lamb tagine to prawn laksa, Thai beef salad to chocolate brownies, chicken burritos to crème caramel, what home cook wouldn’t want to master these?

The sumptuous photography coupled with Bill’s relaxed and reassuring style, make this a book that I’ll happily keep within easy reach, as there’s few recipes that I won’t attempt to make.

I tried out three recipes, picking ones that were closest to those I make often and they all turned out rather well. I may even be making adjustments to my own efforts in future.

Chickpea Burgers

These have to be the best veggie burgers I’ve had, with their lovely texture, crisp on the outside and soft and nutty in the middle. The Chickpea Burgers (p206) were a breeze to make as they used canned chickpeas, so no soaking and boiling for hours.
I loved Bill’s suggestion to use flat-leaved parsley as a salad leaf in the bun as it gave a very refreshing flavour. The yogurt used instead of the usual mayonnaise in regular burgers made it light and healthy too. Just a little chilli in the burger and a dribble of chilli sauce gave a satisfying kick.

Pancakes

Sometimes, at the weekend, I like to make Pancakes (p13) for breakfast, buttermilk pancakes are by far the best, as they have a pleasant fluffy consistency, just right for a lazy Sunday morning. I hardly ever have buttermilk in the house, something even Bill himself, points out. Bill has a very effective solution, simply add some lemon juice to the milk and let it stand for five minutes before adding to the rest of the ingredients. The milk reacts to the acid in the lemon juice and thickens.
To eat the pancakes, all that was needed was a drizzle of runny honey, some juicy blackberries and natural yogurt on the side.

Bucatini all’Amatriciana

Pasta dishes have fast become a mainstay in most home kitchens. They are quick to prepare and tasty to eat. Bill’s Bucatini all’Amatriciana (p126) is no exception, rich and tomatoey with meaty bits of pancetta clinging to the Bucatini pasta. Bucatini has now entered my list of favourites, it looks like a slightly thicker spaghetti, but has a hole down the centre. I adore its amazing texture, although you can’t suck it up like spaghetti as the hole in the middle stops that!
The sauce was exceptionally delicious with the addition of a little red wine vinegar and sugar that gave a good sweet and sour effect balancing well with the saltiness of the pancetta.

Bill’s Basics by Bill Granger is published by Quadrille.
Hardback RRP £25.00
Order yours now


Food photos: ©childsdesign 2010
Book kindly supplied by Quadrille Publishing

The Scandinavian Cookbook

Food should not only feed the body, but also the soul. A little more time spent in the kitchen using fresh and seasonal ingredients to make a meal to be enjoyed together is Trina Hahnemann’s dream. In her book The Scandinavian Cookbook she takes us month by month through 100 traditional Nordic recipes which perfectly capture the essence of Scandinavian cuisine and culture.
Trina, a leading Danish TV chef and food writer give us recipes which are a light modern version of Scandinavian home cooking, presented in a way that is simple and healthy.

As soon as I received the book I couldn’t wait to flick through its pages. I’m passionate about all things Scandinavian, a seed that was planted within me ever since visiting Iceland and Sweden has found me exploring and researching everything from food to design.

I would love to see more dishes from northern latitudes being served in Britain and there really is no reason why Scandinavian food shouldn’t become more popular.
Most people tend to think of Nordic ingredients consisting of mostly fish or dare I say it, slightly dodgy meatballs in IKEA. Make them yourself, they’re so much better as page 84 demonstrates and if you’re in the mood for something more spicy try the meatballs in curry sauce on page 194 – yes, the Scandinavians are partial to curry too.
There really is so much more to their cuisine, seafood in all its variants, fresh from the garden salads, hearty roasts and irresistible baking.

After spending a good hour salivating over the pages and marking potential recipes with post-it notes, I selected four to try.
The choice was difficult as I wanted to make everything, but with the help of Lars Ranek’s gorgeous photography I decided on the ones where the pictures made my mouth water the most.
It was easy to get carried away by the images of sparkling frost covered trees, the golden light of a low sun illuminating the cobbled maritime streets of Copenhagen or hazy meadows and quaint summerhouses, that I had to prise myself out of the sofa, away from moments of nostalgia and get myself into the kitchen.

Here follows those chosen dishes complete with photos of my own attempts.

Cauliflower Soup with Grilled Scallops

I don’t often make soups, but I was drawn to the Cauliflower Soup with Grilled Scallops (p.184), I think the idea of scallops made it sound rather special and I fancied a treat. The soup itself was easy to make and had a glorious velvety texture. The hint of curry flavour lifted it from potential blandness and surprisingly, although the cauliflower was typically smelly on cooking, the soup didn’t have the characteristic strong cauliflower flavour. The scallops were simply griddled and then dressed in fresh lemon juice which perfectly complimented the creaminess of the soup.

Biff Lindström

Biff Lindström (p.54) is a clever adaptation of steak tartare, all the ingredients are there, but it is cooked, so if you’re not a fan of eating raw meat, then this is the recipe for you.
Minced beef is combined with onions, capers, pickled beetroot, chives, Worcestershire sauce and eggs yolks, formed into burger shapes and fried. I even made the pickled beetroot myself (p.48), I loved the use of star anise that gave a light aniseed flavour.
The Biff Lindström is served on crispy sautéed potatoes with Balsamico beans on the side. My french beans didn’t look quite like the book’s photo as the balsamic vinegar had made them a touch brown, but they did taste very good.
The beef was moist and well flavoured and who could resist fried potatoes especially as they were cooked in some butter.

Potato Cakes

Sometimes I will take an element of a recipe and adapt it to what I have in the fridge and pantry. This time I made just the potato cakes from the recipe for Potato Cakes with Lumpfish Roe and Beetroot Salad (p.30). Instead of topping with lumpfish roe, I chose to use some flaked smoked mackerel with the homemade pickled beetroot and a dollop of horseradish cream on top.
I’ve never made potato cakes before, and I was initially concerned that they might fall apart or not properly cook through. The cakes are bound together with egg so held together effortlessly and as the potato was grated it cooked perfectly. Extra flavour additions were spring onions, sesame seeds, nutmeg and thyme which gave the potato cakes a good savoury taste. I think mine turned out well and they were enjoyably crisp.

Cardamom Buns

There’s nothing more tempting than some Scandinavian baking. Fresh breads and pastries, still warm from the oven fills the house with such an inviting aroma. I can imagine snuggling up by a real fire on a long Norwegian winter night with the smell of spices and comforting yeasty aromas wafting from the kitchen.
I love making bread by hand so I thought I’d make the Cardamom Buns (p.38). Cardamom is a much used spice in Scandinavia and I think it lends a pleasant perfume to sweet breads.
Making the buns was a long process, as bread making should be, but it was well worth the effort. My buns rose really well, so much so that they touched each other on the baking tray. When I removed them from the oven, all satisfyingly shiny from the egg glaze, it was a joy to separate them, the gentle ripping sound of well made bread with a wisp of escaping steam delivering the spicy aroma into my nostrils.

I was pleased with the overall ease that the recipes could be made – they are breeze to follow and many use readily available ingredients.
Some of the recipes are starkly simplistic, for example, strawberries and cream (p.104), but if one considers it to be a source of inspiration and an insight into Scandinavian cuisine, then it has its place.

The Scandinavian Cookbook by Trina Hahnemann is published by Quadrille.
Paperback RRP £14.99
Order yours now


Food photos: ©childsdesign 2010
Book kindly supplied by Quadrille Publishing