Butternut Squash & Chickpea Curry

Sometimes I don't want a curry that is too rich or heavy, but I still want a good depth of flavour. I think this recipe is Bengali in origin. It uses an Indian five-spice blend called Panch Phoran. The spices are left whole so you get nice little flavour bursts with every mouthful that perfectly complement the fresh sweetness of the butternut squash and the round earthiness of the chickpeas.
The dash of fresh ground fennel seeds at the end really gives the dish a brightness and wonderful aniseed aroma.

Serves 4

Ingredients
1tbsp vegetable oil
1 bay leaf
1/2 tsp panch phoran (see my 'how to make it' if you'd like to make your own)
1-2 green chillies, cut in half lengthways and deseeded
1 small onion chopped
1/2 tsp tumeric
2 tsp ground cumin
1 heaped tsp ground coriander
thumb sized piece ginger, grated
salt to taste
sugar to taste
500g butternut squash, peeled, seeds removed and cut into 2cm pieces
200ml boiling water
200g cooked chickpeas
1 tsp ground garam masala
1 tsp fennel seeds, ground to a powder


Method
In a large heavy frying pan, heat the oil and add the bay leaf, panch phoran, chillies and fry gently for 1-2 minutes until the seeds begin to pop

Add the chopped onion and stir well to coat with the spices. Fry gently until very soft and translucent.

Add the tumeric, ginger paste, cumin and coriander, salt and sugar and a splash of water and cook for 1-2 minutes

Add the butternut squash and the boiling water. Bring to the boil and then turn down the heat to a simmer and cook for 15 minutes. Cook until the squash is tender but don't allow it to become mushy.

Stir in the chickpeas, garam masala and ground fennel. Cook for about 1-2 minutes until the chickpeas are warmed through and everything is well combined.

Serve with basmati rice and yogurt.

Photo: ©childsdesign 2011

Panch Phoran

I have always kept a well stocked spice cupboard because I really enjoy making curries from scratch. I try to keep whole spices and grind them myself as they last longer and the flavour is much better than pre-ground spices. It is important that you keep them in airtight containers in a cool, dry and dark place. Wall mounted spice racks may look impressive and make for easier access but light is the enemy and blasts the oils from even the most robust of spices. This can leave you with nothing more than dust which is useless for cooking.

On one of my curry making quests I found a recipe that uses Panch Phoran. This is a blend of five Indian spices – fenugreek seeds, nigella (kalonji) seeds, fennel seeds, cumin seeds and black mustard seeds. You can buy it ready blended in the shops but as I already had these spices as separate entities, I thought why not mix my own.

It is very simple to put together as all the proportions are identical for each spice, so I measured a couple of teaspoons of each one into a bowl, stirred to mix well and tipped them into a jar ready to be used with ease in my cooking. Traditionally it is always used as whole spices and never ground.

Fenugreek – Buff coloured and looks like little stones.
Nigella (Kalonji) – Slightly irregular-shaped and deep black in colour.
Fennel – Elongated and green
Cumin – Elongated and brown
Black Mustard – Small, round and dark brown

Photo: ©childsdesign 2011

Chicken Vindaloo

First things first, I want to set the record straight about Vindaloo. It is not a tongue-blistering, ear-ringingly hot curry. Traditionally, it should be a sensitive blend of sweet and sour and of course some spicy heat, but I can not emphasise enough that it is not so hot as to render one unconscious.

Let us cast aside images of post pub curry house eating competitions and Keith Allen chanting "vindaloo, vindaloo" all in the name of football. The song was written by Keith Allen and Alex James, Blur's bassist under the name Fat Les in 1998, by the way.

Originating from Goa, the recipe is derived from a Portuguese dish (the first Portuguese colony in India was settled in the 16th century) usually made with pork, wine and garlic, called Carne de Vinha d'Alhos. Over time, the dish was adapted by the Goans using vinegar instead of wine and copious quantities of spices. The potatoes actually shouldn't be there and this may have arisen due to the word 'aloo' being Hindi for potato. (Vind = vinegar & aloo = potato)

I have adapted this recipe from one by Madhur Jaffrey from her Ultimate Curry Bible, the only difference being that I used chicken instead of duck.
I remember watching Madhur Jaffrey's cooking programmes on television back in the 80s and let's say, I learnt an awful lot about Indian cooking from her. Before then, most people I knew would buy takeaways or chuck in a Veeraswamy concentrated curry sauce, at best, into the pot with some meat.

Hailed as the Delia of Indian cookery, Madhur Jaffrey uncovered a whole world of exciting cuisine to me. I remember my Mum's spice rack expanding with things that I'd never seen before, like cardamom and suddenly fresh ginger was sitting happily next to the salad in the fridge, not to mention lots of garlic.
Some things were still difficult to get hold of at that time, especially fresh coriander, unless you lived in or near a multi-cultural town like we did. How things have changed, now these things are commonplace in the supermarket.

Madhur Jaffrey opened my eyes to making a curry from scratch and even with the long ingredients lists I was never fazed and saw it as a thrilling challenge to create something authentic.
Even now I find the art of Indian cuisine very relaxing and rewarding.

Serves 6

Ingredients
half teaspoon ground turmeric
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 tablespoon bright red paprika
1 tablespoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon cayenne pepper
1 & a half teaspoons garam masala
4 tablespoons corn oil
12 or more skinless and boneless chicken thighs, each cut in half
half teaspoon whole brown mustard seeds
quarter teaspoon whole fenugreek seeds
15 curry leaves
2 medium onions, peeled and sliced into fine half rings
2 tablespoons peeled and finely grated fresh ginger
10 medium cloves garlic, peeled and crushed to a pulp
2 medium tomatoes, peeled and chopped
120 ml/4 fl oz cider vinegar
2 teaspoons salt
1 tablespoon sugar
3 medium potatoes, par-boiled and cut into chunks

Method
Mix together the turmeric, cumin, paprika, coriander, cayenne pepper and garam masala in a small bowl and set aside.

Pour the oil into a large, wide, lidded pan and set over a medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, put in as many chicken thighs, as the pan will hold easily in a single layer. Lightly brown the chicken, about 2-3 minutes per side, and remove, using a slotted spoon, to a bowl. Brown all the chicken this way and remove.

Add the mustard and fenugreek seeds to the hot oil and, as soon as the mustard seeds start to pop, which will happen in a matter of seconds, put in the curry leaves and onions. Stir and fry them until the onions begin to turn brown at the edges. Now put in the ginger and garlic. Stir and fry for a minute.

Add the mixed spices from the small bowl and stir for 30 seconds. Add the tomatoes and cook, stirring, until they have softened, about 2-3 minutes. Scrape the bottom of the pan as you do this.

Now add the browned chicken thighs, the vinegar, salt, sugar and 475 ml/16 fl oz water. Add the potatoes. Stir and bring to the boil. Cover, reduce the heat to low and cook gently for 30 minutes, lifting the lid occasionally to stir.

Increase the heat to medium-low and simmer, partially covered, a bit more vigorously, stirring more frequently, for a further 20 minutes or until the chicken is tender and the sauce has thickened slightly.

Buy the book


Photo: ©childsdesign 2010

The Three Sisters Indian Cookbook

Centering on the food that sisters, Sereena, Alexa and Priya craved from their childhood, the cookbook features many traditional and authentic Indian dishes.

The Kaul family left Kashmir in the 1970s and grew up in Derbyshire with their mother’s cooking being the heart of the home. When they grew up and and had families of their own, they longed to make these same recipes and this book is the result of gleaning their mother’s and grandmother’s culinary creations.

This is the sort of book I can appreciate and respect. Knowing that its recipes have come from the kitchens of real Indian families, I can be sure what I make and eat is authentic and has every bit of love and care put into its creation.

All too often recipes become altered by overly experimental, and dare I say it, competitive chefs, so that the results are unrecognisable from the original, but this is the real thing as eaten in many Indian homes.
Obviously it has the appeal for curry enthusiasts, such as myself, but it could and should have a rightful place on the bookshelf of young Indian families wanting to recreate the taste of home.

The detailed introduction gives a comprehensive guide to all the spices used throughout the book, in fact the sisters have created a spice box (masala dabba) which can be bought online from their store (www.flavoursandspices.co.uk) which has everything you need and keeps the spices fresh.
There is also a section giving advice on planning, preparation, storage and even how to make your own paneer cheese, which is so easy, you’ll never need to buy it again.

Divided into chapters covering Snacks and Starters, Chicken, Lamb, Fish and Prawns, Vegetable Dishes, Rice, Beans and Lentils, Bread and Chutneys and Desserts and Drinks, meal planning is a breeze, only the sheer choice of delicious looking dishes, makes it difficult to decide what to make. Every recipe has an accompanying photograph, which is inspiration in itself.

Dhansak, Jalfrezi, Rogan Josh, all the familiar names are there, plus there are some irresistible looking fish dishes too. I may even be tempted to try okra again – it’s not always been that popular with me, as I don’t normally like slimy textures – but the Crispy Okra Chips (p. 28) have more appeal. Other tasty bites are Tikki (p.29) and Pakora (p.22) which are straightforward to make.

Murgh Tikka (Chicken Tikka)

I decided to make Chicken Tikka (p.44), this is something I’m very familiar with in terms of the ready-made variety, but I wanted to see for myself what they really should be like. I loved the result. After the long marination process in the yogurt and spice mix, the chicken became meltingly soft and rich in flavour. Mine looked greener in colour than the book’s picture (probably something to do with the juicy fresh coriander) but the taste was just heaven, so much better than the shop bought pretenders.

Tamatar Kuchumber (Tomato Salad)

I also put together the Tomato Salad (p.37) which was really refreshing with lime juice, mint and coriander complementing the tingle of chilli.

At first glance some of the ingredients lists can look a little daunting, but the methods are easy to follow and the recipes can be made with the minimum of fuss, providing you have everything to hand before you start.

The Three Sisters Indian Cookbook has made me want to eat curry everyday and I could happily eat my way through the book from start
to finish.

The Three Sisters Indian Cookbook by Sereena, Alexa & Priya Kaul is published by Simon & Schuster.
Paperback RRP £16.99

Food photos: ©childsdesign 2010
Book kindly supplied by Simon & Schuster

I Love Curry

I’m inclined to agree with those that say curry is addictive, whether the exotic spices have a narcotic property or not, they certainly tantalise the taste buds, making me want more.

Lately, curry has had a bad rap from health enthusiasts, stating that it is high in fat, sugar and salt, takeaways and ready meals especially so.
That’s not good news for devotees of Indian food who want enjoy a good fuss-free curry but also care about what they put into their bodies.

Anjum Anand has the perfect antidote to this problem, as her approach to Indian cooking is lighter and healthier, but no less authentic or full of evocative spices. It is very refreshing to know that curries do not have to be covered in a layer of oil to be bursting with flavour.
The recipes are not complicated either. I Love Curry delivers clear well described instructions which are undemanding to follow, perfect for the novice curry lover.
The book offers plenty of choice for those looking for tried and trusted favourites, restaurant classics or authentic regional dishes. In total there are 50 great curries and 25 accompanying dishes.

Anjum gives us plenty of information about ingredients and cooking methods, she also shares her tips to help achieve the perfect result,
which made me aware of the fact that I’m still learning.

Prawn Mango and Coconut Curry

With such a variety of recipes for vegetable, poultry and game, meat and fish and seafood, I was torn between something I knew like the Chilli Chicken Balti (p.99) or something I was less familiar with. I went for the latter and chose the Prawn, Mango and Coconut Curry (p.80), which turned out very well.
According to Anjum, the curry came about after a chat with her publisher who wanted to include mangoes in the book, particularly in a savoury curry. I quite liked the idea myself and the coconut was also especially appealing.
Interestingly, the recipe doesn’t use ay garlic or onions but that’s not missed in the end result. The flavour is very aromatic, fragranced with curry leaves, brown mustard seeds, whole black peppercorns and of
course chillies.

Cucumber and Mint Raita

I decided to make the Cucumber and Mint Raita (p.171), not because I’d never had it before, but to prove that something so ridiculously simple does need a recipe. On previous non-recipe assisted attempts mine always turned out too thin in consistency. However, following Anjum’s foolproof guide it worked out fine. It is essential to squeeze the grated cucumber through a cloth to remove the excess water.

With well thought out recipes and splendid photography there’s nothing that won’t inspire curry lovers, whether they are venturing out into the world of cooking Indian cuisine for the first time or they are experienced and confident in the kitchen.

I Love Curry by Anjum Anand is published by Quadrille.
Hardback RRP £17.99
Order yours now


Food photos: ©childsdesign 2010
Review copy kindly supplied by Quadrille Publishing

Kedgeree

This is my version of the old colonial Anglo-Indian breakfast dish. I have never actually eaten it for breakfast, but it does make a very good evening meal.
The combination of smoked haddock, gently spiced rice and boiled eggs is equally good on a summer's day or as a comforting autumnal meal.

Serves 2

Ingredients
250g smoked haddock fillets
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 small onion, chopped
1 garlic clove, finely crushed and chopped
1 thumb-sized piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated
4 whole green cardamom pods
half teaspoon cumin seeds
half teaspoon fennel seeds
quarter teaspoon black mustard seeds
2 whole cloves
1 cinnamon stick
1 bay leaf
half teaspoon ground turmeric
pinch ground cayenne pepper
half teaspoon vegetable bouillon powder
142g basmati rice
boiling water

2 eggs, free-range

good handful fresh coriander leaves, roughly chopped
mango chutney, to serve

Method
Bring some water to a simmer in frying pan and place in the haddock. Poach the fish gently for about 8 minutes, until firm to the touch and slightly opaque.
Remove the fish carefully and transfer to a plate. Peel off the skin and flake the fish into largish pieces, taking care to remove any bones. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a large lidded saucepan.
Add the onion and fry gently for a minute or so, add the garlic and ginger and continue to fry gently.
Crush the cardamom pods just enough so that they split. Add them to the pan with the rest of the whole spices and the turmeric and cayenne and stir. Then add the rice and stir until coated. Put in the bouillon powder and pour in enough boiling water to cover the rice. Put on the lid and turn down the heat to the lowest setting. It is best to cook on the smallest ring on your hob.

Boil the eggs for about 5-6 mins so that they still have fairly soft yolks.
When the eggs are done, remove from the heat, drain away the hot water and place the pan under the cold tap. Leave to stand for a few minutes before peeling the eggs and halving them lengthways.
After 15 minutes remove the lid from the pan.The rice should have completely absorbed the water and be fluffy. Add the fish and gently stir in, using a fork, until it is warmed through, then stir in the chopped coriander.
Spoon into large bowls top with the eggs and serve with mango chutney.

Photo: ©childsdesign 2010

Pleased to Be in a Pickle

I had a nice little challenge this past bank holiday weekend, and that was to cook curry using a recipe. I'm probably what people call an instinctive cook and rarely use a recipe or just have one as a guideline, so when I was offered the chance to try recipes from Tracklements using their chutneys, I was somewhat out of my comfort zone, after all I wanted to make sure I was being faithful to their instructions so I could properly appreciate the end result.

Ok, maybe I deviated a little, after all, the letter from Tracklements Customer Club did say that it was OK to adapt them, if I wanted.
For the prawn curry I stuck to the formula, but the lamb and lentil curry was tailored around what I had, or didn't have in the pantry. No puy lentils, so red lentils instead and I left out the stock cube and bouquet garni, dropping in a preferred bay leaf.

The prawn curry used Green Tomato Chutney and the lamb, Plum Chutney, both tasted great and well spiced. The prawns were quite light and fresh compared to the lamb which was rich with notes of cinnamon which came from the chutney.

I also had the privilege of trying out their new Bengal Pickle, a lovely sticky, garlicky pickle made mostly with grated carrot – not what I was expecting, but it was gorgeous, especially when I got a little citrus burst from the occasional whole coriander seed. The consistency was just right for balancing on a bit of poppadom too, so it made the journey from plate to mouth without any embarrassing drips.

Well, the meal was most enjoyable and I still have enough chutney left to make more or to eat more traditionally with cheese.

For more information about Tracklements, visit their website: tracklements.co.uk

Photos: ©childsdesign 2010

Bipin's Masala

Eating curry has become very popular in many British households over the years, but not many people make it from scratch. Preparing it using all the component spices can be time consuming, leading many people to resort to using ready-made sauces or pastes for ease and speed. I often make my own curries from raw ingredients, as so far I’ve been disappointed with the results from shop bought mixtures – this means that I only make them when I have more time.

When I was given the opportunity to try a spice mix from Bipin’s Masala, I was keen to give it a go, as the masala is made from entirely fresh ingredients.
Based in Letchworth Garden City, Hertfordshire, Bipin takes pride in creating authentic masalas, using a blend of Gujarati spices, that are tasty as well as healthy – there’s no need to add oil or salt. They are are gluten and dairy free and completely vegetarian, unless you add meat to your curry of course. Having no colourings, flavourings, additives or preservatives, they are completely fresh and natural and this very much appeals to me.

Five varieties are available; Surti, Jeera, Methi, Machi and Garam, I used the Surti Masala.
It certainly looked appetising in the pot, a deep red, flecked with green coriander leaves. As soon as I opened the lid a gorgeous aroma wafted out – it smelled as if it had been made just moments ago. My pot contained enough for a four person meal, it didn’t look like much, but the masala is so concentrated you don’t need a lot.

I used chicken and a little sautéed onion and mixed them together with the masala in a heavy casserole and put it in the oven. There’s absolutely no need to brown the meat and cooking it this way allows the beautiful flavours to infuse the meat fully. No water is required either, as during cooking, moisture is released from the meat giving the right amount of liquid.
Towards the end of cooking some cream or yogurt can be stirred through, I chose to use yogurt as I like its zingy flavour. Some roughly chopped coriander leaves are a nice addition too.

The end result was a revelation and the flavour definitely authentic. It was good and spicy with just the right level of chilli heat – not tongue-burningly so, but a pleasant lingering warmth. The other spices revealed themselves in layers of taste, so that each one was discernible and readily appreciated. A well balanced curry indeed that left me wanting more.

For more information visit Bipin’s website: www.curryfusion.net
Read Bipin’s blog for news and recipes: bipinscurrypot.blogspot.com

Friday Night Chicken Curry

Sometimes the end of the week doesn't seem complete without a good curry. I don’t know what it is, but there’s something strangely addictive about Indian food and when work has left you depleted mentally and physically, a gloriously spicy dish is the perfect perk up, which I love to regard as a treat.
However, it is all too easy to get a takeaway or pick up a ready-meal version from the supermarket. This is absolutely fine, but often the guilt seeps in and I have to put in the effort to make my own.

The following recipe is my concoction which is inspired by a jalfrezi. It is quite spicy as there are chunks of chilli pepper in it. For this one I used the long Spanish chillis which are reasonably fiery but are easy to regulate the amount used, in terms of heat required. Of course it is all a matter of personal taste, so feel free to adjust the quantity to satisfy your needs.

Ingredients
1/2 tsp cumin seeds
1/2 tsp coriander seeds
1/4 tsp fenugreek seeds
1/4 tsp black mustard seeds
1/4 tsp kalonji seeds (nigella seeds)
2 tblspns groundnut oil
4 cloves garlic, crushed finely to a pulp
inch piece fresh ginger, grated
2 medium onions, finely chopped
6 dried curry leaves
1/2 tsp ground turmeric
1/4 tspn cayenne pepper
1/2 tspn paprika
can tomatoes
2 tblspns tomato puree
4 chicken breasts, cut into 1 inch pieces
red capsicum pepper, de-seeded and cut into 1 inch chunks
2 red chilli peppers, de-seeded and roughly sliced
low fat yogurt (strained)*

Method
Heat a frying pan and put in the cumin and coriander seeds and dry roast them over a medium heat until they just begin to colour and give off their aromas. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Tip them into an electric coffee grinder and grind them to a powder and set aside.

In a large pan, heat the oil and put in the mustard, fenugreek and nigella seeds and fry gently until the mustards seeds start to pop and you can see the fenugreek seeds beginning to go a shade darker.
Add the onions and fry on a medium heat until they soften. Add the garlic and ginger and cook until the raw garlic smell disappears, stirring all the time.

Now add the ground coriander and cumin along with the cayenne pepper, turmeric, and paprika. Crumble in the curry leaves. Stir-fry gently for a couple of minutes.

Add the tinned tomatoes, squishing them with your wooden spoon and then stir in the tomato puree. Allow the sauce to bubble gently for about 10 mins, stirring occasionally. Season to taste.
A little water maybe added if the sauce becomes to thick.

Put in the chicken and stir to mix in, making sure it is covered by the sauce and let it all simmer gently for about 15 mins.

Add the peppers and chillies and continue to cook for a further 10 mins until the peppers soften.
Just before serving stir through the strained yogurt.*

*to strain yogurt, place a clean thin cloth inside a sieve and place over a jug. Spoon the yogurt into the cloth and leave to stand for a couple of hours or overnight in the fridge. There should be liquid left in the jug, discard this, and you’ll be left with very thick yogurt in the cloth. I find that when strained, the yogurt behaves better in cooking and it also has such a rich creamy texture – you’d never know that it was low fat.